Tuesday, 18 July 2017

On to the Alentejo

Relaxed start as we head into Portugal's hottest and driest area. Farming and agriculture similar to yesterday but many more vineyards as we head north.

First stop was Beja, off the tourist track and extremely quiet.  Founded by Julius Ceasar in 48BC and named Pax Julia. Castle from the 13th century is still preserved.  Town lost a lot of its population and deteriorated in earlier years but is being reborn so lots of restoration work.  Like everywhere in Portugal, lots of cafes and restaurants, but here they are all little 6-8 seaters, so we had to spread ourselves around for coffees - €4 for four cups and a slice of cake.

Back on the road and we see and hear plenty about cork trees. Trees are protected and cannot be harvested in first 25 years - then every 9 years (live for over 100 years). Across the country there are 500 cork factories, employing 250,000 people.  Portugal produces more than 50% of the world's cork, and cork represents 60% of Portugal's foreign trade €'s. The best quality cork is reserved for making wine corks.

Into Evora for lunch. Evora is very unspoilt and one of Portugal's most historical cities.  Around 55,000 population but most live outside its old wall. It's Roman temple survives along with its Moorish alleys, medieval wall and aquaduct (Aqueduto do Agua Prata) into which houses have been incorporated in places.  The walls and all within them have UNESCO World Heritage listing.

Light lunch of sangria and shredded octopus pancakes before walking tour.  Covered all key sites including the Roman Temple, squares, Cathedral and the Franciscan Igreja - including is "chapel of bones".  The shops have a very strong bent towards cork products, everything from postcards, to hats, to baskets is available in cork.  You can even buy a cork bikini.  Then to our hotel, the Mar de Ar Aqueduto (modern 5 star built into an old convent), and adjacent to the aquaduct.

35C by mid afternoon so time for the pool before heading out to dinner.  Evora, the same restaurant as for lunch - most enjoyable.

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