Back home

"Like all great travellers, I saw more than I could remember, and I remember more than I could have seen." (Benjamin Disraeli)

Home at 10.30pm last night on comfortable, but unspectacular Etihad flights (would not rate Etihad ahead of Singapore Airlines).

Badly missing our Lisbon wake up temperatures and views of the ferries on the Rio Tego!!

Portugal is a great place to visit, but you need time to immerse yourself.  It has cathedrals, castles, history, landscapes, sights etc which pretty much measure up against anywhere else in Europe. In J

uly and August, at least, the weather is brilliant and it is not hard to put in a week in each of Lisbon and Porto. You can travel easily to much of the country by train. If you want to drive, the extensive motorways are brilliant (and very lightly used). The Duoro river wine growing area is stunning, whether you travel it by boat, train or car - you just do not tire of it.

Don't leave it too late to get to Portugal however as it is progressively being discovered as a tourist destination, prices are creeping up in line with such increasing popularity, a Chinese airline has just commenced direct flights and it's best to have age and fitness on your side because it is all cobblestones and lots of hills.

Insight tours - outstanding, but we were extremely lucky with just 28 on tour (on a 54 seater bus, fitted with just 40 seats) - and to have a Tour Director with so much enthusiasm and knowledge of her adopted country (as well as a brilliant driver).

Croisi cruise - outstanding, but again, so lucky to have a brand new boat and just 95 passengers (capacity 132).  French cuisine spectacular (only the breakfasts, understandably, a little Euro biased).  One of us also noted that the bathroom supplies were not premium branded.

Porto de Rio - outstanding accommodation in a perfect spot right in the heart of town and on the riverfront.  Near new conversion inside what had in earlier years been a bond store.

Emporium Suites Lisbon - almost as good. On the riverfront and an equally new conversion.  Will be even better when new park works are completed and surrounding building renovations are finished. Buildings are not demolished over here, they are preserved and renovated (but it sometimes is a very lengthy proceess).

Eurovision 2018 is in Lisbon and this will give Portugal a massive exposure - and accommodation prices are already "going mad" according to our Lisbon hostess.

Smoking remains a major issue.  While many restrictions are being phased in, cigarette prices remain very low. Not much graffiti in city areas (none in country towns), similar re rubbish. Public transport readily available, easy to use, and clean and frequent services.

Last day, and it's modern Lisbon

Our last day in Lisbon and Portugal, so it's time to see something modern.  Lisbon was the site of Expo 1998 and the urban regeneration of Parques das Nacoes helped propel the city into the 21st century with cutting edge architecture, urban art and riverside gardens.

The area is close to the airport and so there is a modern line of the Metro running on its edge, indeed the Oriente Metro station is itself an attraction.  It's vaulted structure fans out into a concertina roof, it links directly to the very modern Vasco de Gama shopping centre, and is surrounded by modern office blocks and hotels.

It has a graceful walkway to the river with the flags of all the nations that were part of Expo 98.  Australia was not one of them. At the top end of the riverside promenade is the mighty Pont Vasco de Gama, at 17.2km long, it is the longest bridge in Europe.  Here the river is so wide it could be an ocean.  At this end there is also the Torre Vasco da Gama, a 145m high concrete and steel skyscraper shaped like the sail of a mighty caravel. Sidling up to the tower is a new 5 star hotel.

At the other end is a modern aquarium, a "scienceworks" and a water garden.  The two ends are joined by a tree lined promenade of gardens, water features, art works and restaurants, and up above, there is a 20m cable car running along the water's edge. (Cable Car just €2 for Seniors - indeed the Seniors Card has proved its value at around 10 attractions during this trip.) The area also has the big entertainment centre and exhibition halls from Expo 98.

Lunch of grilled chorizo (on a flaming burner on the table) and sangria (not as good as yesterday's). Some time in the Vasco de Gama shopping centre before the Metro back to town, and last wander to our apartment.

Feet up and clean up for the last supper!!  Went to D'alfandanga restaurant again as we have enjoyed it twice, but my menu selection tonight did not turn out as expected - enjoyable, but not the roasted on the bone pork shank with crackling that I was expecting.

Cooler tonight for the first time, and sunset is now just a little after 9.10pm, almost 30 minutes earlier than we first arrived in Lisbon nearly four weeks back.

A day on the Estoril Coast

Low to mid thirties in the city - the weather is just so outstanding, and it's our day to go to the Estoril Coast just west of Lisbon.

Mindful of the queues for tickets on that line yesterday, it's an early start and we are at Cais de Sodre station before 9am, very quickly on the train and into Cascais before 10am.  The Estoril Coast stretches for 30km to Cascais, at its furtherest point.  Cascais is quite a grand town with impressive buildings, some very attractive hotels, and former fishermen's houses wrapped around a bay dotted by sandy beaches.  Beautiful mosaic paved and partly pedestrianised streets leading down to the beach - plenty of shops, bars and cafes and quite an English feel.  Very impressive numbers on the beach by 10.30am.

A pedestrianised promenade sits atop many small beaches, so we meander on the promenade and wade along the sandy shores.  Air temperature 26C, water temperature just 17C as this is the Atlantic coast.  Notwithstanding the last month of consistent 30C+ days, this is about as warm as the water ever gets, but it seems to suit the locals and holiday makers fine.

Coffee on the promenade before we continued our meanderings all the way to Estoril which had been the haunt of exiled royalty in years past.  Once again, very nice, wide sandy beaches - with teams of uniformed young people patrolling all along the promenade and beaches picking up rubbish, including cigarette butts.

Beautiful palm lined park in Estoril, so it was lunch of pizza and a jug of outstanding sangria.  Should note here the variation in bodies and bathing attire - and a particular photo shoot in the park.

Caught the train back a few stops to Carcavelos, the most extensive beach on the Estoril coast - big, long, sandy and packed.  Had our swim here in the very brisk but very clean and clear Atlantic waters. Tide was coming in, so the masses on the beach were becoming more compressed -and more and more continued to arrive.

Train back to Lisbon for feet up and clean up before dinner.  Off tonight to Prima Pasta, Italian Restaurant, once again just 150m from our apartment.  Very, very good - veal for Pat and calamari risotto for me, all washed down with a bottle of Mateus Rose.

Last Cathedral, Castle and archaeological site

The Committee decided my itinerary is a little too ambitious after yesterday, so a more relaxed day today.  A not so early wander along the riverfront to the Time Out Market to see trade underway, but suprisingly quiet for a Saturday morning.  Coffee, and then a one stop train trip to the city proper (queues for train tickets to beachside areas are long - note for tomorrow!).

Some wandering, including to Miradouro de Santa Catarina, some snacking, then some shopping time for Pat before getting together for a drink.  Pat headed back to our apartment, while I headed up hill to the Se (Cathedral). Even into the latter part of the afternoon, the famous Tram 28 is packed and not worth the crush - so it's a substantial climb. The Se was built in 1150 on the site of a mosque soon after the city was recaptured from the Moors - and was restored in the 1930's.

Climbing continued to the Castelo de Sao Jorge which sits gazing grandly over the city.  First settlers in the area in the 7th century BC, but the castle dates to the mid 11th century when the Moors ruled Lisbon.  Occupied then by Christian crusaders in 1147, royals from the 14th to 16th centuries, and convicts in every century, the castle has seen it all - battles, coronations and an earthquake.  Never quite made it to the highest rampart, but did a good job until the left ankle again packed up, resulting in the second unfurling of the walking stick - particularly necessary on the steep descent on the slippery marble cobblestones.

Stopped off at Miradouro da Graca for great views of the hillside, the river and the Ponte 25th de Abril. Notwithstanding the time that had passed, every Tram 28 was still packed to the rafters - so it was all the way down hill to home.

Feet up for a while before a clean up and dinner.  Turned left outside our apartment tonight before walking past about 8 restaurants in 150m and settling on Empregado de Mesa, a family run local restaurant operating since 1953.  Mother & father, son and grandson (on school holidays) all working tonight.  Good wholesome food, but without the glitz of the last two nights.

What a day in Sintra

Urban train trip this morning.  About 50 minutes and needed an urban stored value card rather than the Metro one we have.  Apparently there is a way to interchange them, but I am yet to discover it.  Disappointinhly, the Sintra line is one that features extensive graffiti along its route - but the train itself was very clean and graffiti free.

Sintra is UNESCO listed for its parks, palaces and castle. A carefully planned and researched day, however, was pretty much turned on its head by the numbers who had the same plan.  Bus up to Pena Palace and into ticket queue (why is it that so many in queue have done no research and take up so much time?). Very pleasant young man in ticket box tells me that the queue for Palace at the top of the hill was 2 hours long and recommends gardens only, so we take shuttle to the top and confirm the queue length. Pena sits hilltop as an ornate medley of domes and towers of many colours.  It was built in the 1840's by German Baron von Eschwege on the site of a former monastery. We wander around outside the Palace and through the gardens back down to the gates.

What we find is logjam, with public buses, tour buses, taxis, rental cars, private cars and tuk tuks unable to move and simply "vacated" on the one way road. No one moves as we walk down the road to Castelo dos Mouros (Castle of the Moors) - 600m, and still as far as we can see the logjam continues.

The Castle was built in the 9th century and was taken from the Moors in 1147 (with some recent excavations evidencing human presence from the 5th century). Wander through the Castle grounds and climb a couple of sections of its wall (not the highest points).  At this stage my emergency walking stick is required (its first appearance ever despite being with me in 11 countries).

What to do?? Go back to the logjammed one way road and hope that we can eventually catch a bus down, or tackle the very steep and winding cobbled steps and path all the way down to Sintra - about 3km, with only the last km being anything like flat.  The decision is made, walk the track and stairs - and it proves to be very tough. Eventually we reach a viewpoint with a Bar, so it's a refreshing sangria and building of the will to get all the way to the station.

Back on a different train route, but a bit of investigation identifies a one transfer trip all the way to Terreiro do Paco Metro station just 200m from our apartment.  Feet up time, then a clean up for dinner.  In our condition, it has to be very close, and so we head to D'alfandanga, the restaurant of our Insight Welcome Dinner.  On that occasion tapas (and plenty of it), tonight a medium sized braised octopus - beautiful!!

The revised and advised plan for Sintra, for anyone who might need it in the future - get to Pena Palace when the gates open!!!!

Off the boat and onto the train

Last breakfast on board and everyone is very sorry to be getting off the boat. I have not heard one negative comment about our boat, our cruise or Croisi - everything has been first class, accommodation, facilities  food, excursions, crew, included drinks (anything but top shelf and all day long) etc, etc, etc.

Last good byes at breakfast before we taxi to Porto Camphana station for train to Lisbon - about 2.5 hours, First Class for €25.50.  Good train, but not among the best in Europe.  Almost fully booked and I would not have wanted to battle the Economy crowds given the numbers and luggage I saw on the platform.  Portugal does not have the most modern long distance rail infrastructure, but on time, and we hit 241km/hr in one spot.

Checked into Emporium Lisbon Suites (small new build in old shell, boutique apartment block) on the river just inside the old Alfama area.  We are on the 4th floor overlooking the water and a small square which is heing redeveloped. Stocked up for breakfast supplies and then some feet up time.  Cruise ships pass by to dock just down river from us and the river seems to be about 1km wide in front of us.

Out for a wander around the very hilly Alfama precinct. Alfama was not severely impacted by Lisbon's 1755 earthquake and is a maze of old alleyways heading off in all directions.  Many are lucky to be 2m wide, laundry is strung above the alleys and there are cafes every few properties.

We probably have 40 restaurants within a 100m radius of our residence, so it was off to one of the more upmarket ones this evening - grilled sardines, great!

A morning in Lamego

A relaxed start for our morning excursion to Lamego, the small city that also claims right to the title of birthplace of country and crown. Lamego hosted Portugal's first parliament when a group of clergy and noblemen assembled to recognise Afonso Henriques as the nation's first King. Lamego had previously been one of the first towns retaken from the Moors in the 12th century.

It is home to the "Nossa Senhora dos Remeios" baroque sanctuary at the top of the hill - the climb is 686 steps up. The devout pilgrims climb up the steps on their knees.  Our less than devout pilgrims went down around 150 steps on their feet!!! The view down to the city is quite spectacular, as it is looking up from below. Naturally there is also a cathedral, very large and grand.  This seems to be a small city on the go, with some very good developments in keeping with the old.

€2.25 for two coffees and a cake.  Then time for shops and shoe purchase.  Another drive down and along the Duoro Valley.  You can never tire of its scenery and you can travel it by road, train or boat.  Back on the boat for our last afternoon as we head back to Porto.  Big surprise when we pull into a local quay so that the 2nd Chef's girlfriend can come on board - and he proposes on bended knee. Great joy among his crewmates and the passengers when she accepts. One of the features of this cruise is that all of the crew, other than the French Head Chef, are Portuguese - and they seen a tight knit group.

Final dinner tonight, and again it is the equal of every other day. Folk dancing night tonight with a group of around 30 singers, dancers and musicians from Gondomar - very entertaining, with some audience participation.

A day of R & R

It's a little boring to again mention the weather, but it is simply stunning. Almost everyone off the boat this afternoon, so a very relaxing time on the Sun Deck - an opportunity for the knees and ankles to recover from yesterday.  Just a brief wander around Pinhao while we pick up our excursioners.

Time on the boat is really relaxing, the food and service is first class and having the benefit of a brand new boat is an absolute plus. One of the interesting features of this boat is that the dining room is only about 50cm above river level and it makes for very pleasant dining to always have eye contact with the water.

On the Sun Deck this afternoon as we sailed along some very narrow river sections and begin to travel down the locks. In some respects, going down is even more spectacular because the next section of river seems so far below. In all we will have climbed more than 120m through 5 locks, and will descend the same on the return trip to Porto.  Before the locks were built the Duoro was not navigatable along most of its Portuguese course.  The locks are a technological marvel, particularly having their incorporated power generation function.

Gala Night tonight, so everyone was in their finery (some of the crew hard to recognise). Great food again (and wine) and plenty of photos with crew and table colleagues.

We have a very good table with a most hospitable hostess (Dulce). Six of us, including two Canadian sisters and their husbands (all of Italian heritage). Carmen & Josie and Antoinette & Anthony have been great company although around 15 years younger than us.  Sadly, this has been our first trip in which we have found ourselves in the "older" group!!!  Finished the night with some dancing (and there were some stars among the europeans).