Not 39C

Forecast has been revised down to 29C and we head to Casa de Mateus.  The Casa is the summer home of the current Count and his wife.  The family went home yesterday, so we missed him.  The Casa is a very large Gothic house with tended gardens based on those of Versailles (but on a much smaller scale).

Much of the house is open to the paying public and in typical Gothic style most of the rooms are entirely regular in placement of doors and windows.  No passageways, you walk from, and through, rooms to get to another, or to get across the house.  Quite a bit of lot of grand furnishings, art works and collected memorabillia.  The famous Mateus Rose is no longer made here (now made further south) and the Casa image has been sold to the current producer.

Then to Vila Real, a city of 50,000 for a wander, coffee and local delicacy before rejoining our boat at Pinhao after another drive across, and down, the magnificent Duoro Valley.  My understanding is that the large wine producers are limited to 800 hectacres and are obliged to then buy from the hundreds of small vineyards, which themselves are limited to 20 hectacres.

An afternoon of cruising, including through two more locks.  Valeira's lock required the Sun Deck to be cleared and everything lowered, including the swimming pool (it is lowered hydraulically through the Sun Deck).

As we head further up the valley, the vineyards thin out, but we are rarely out of site of one, even as we move into more rocky granite country, often rising as steeply as 60 degrees from the river.

Crew show this evening, very entertaining (and a little bit politically incorrect).

A day in Spain

Some overnight confusion regarding time when my watch stopped.  At Barca d'Alva, virtually on the Spanish border but we are still in Portugal - while mobiles have registered to a Spanish service provider, and there is a one hour time difference between the two countries.

Early morning departure for a 115km bus trip to Salamanca in Spain. The first 30km up the valley is quite a climb and the country quite rugged. Once on the plain, extensive farming (although very dry) with cattle, hay cropping and some sheep and pigs (and sun flowers closer to Salamanca). The whole area is covered with stone terracing and fencing (some of it abandoned long ago). The farming properties seem generally quite ramshackle as do the small towns. Despite this, poke your head in a door and you will find an amazingly stocked and presented smallgoods shop.

Salamanca is a world heritage site, settled 2000 years back. It is built of sandstone and very clean. Its central square (Plaza Mayor) is very large and the site of concerts, protests and much student celebration (35,000 university students in a city of 160,000). It has two adjacent, and massive cathedrals, the old gothic (800 years) and the new romanesque (160 years). While massive, they are relatively understated internally, but have such incredible architecture and history.  We also visited part of the 800 year old medieval, and still operational, university and see a lecture theatre of the day, where student seating was arranged by societal ranking and where students could only ask questions of the lecturer as they individually filed by on exiting the lecture theatre.

Our guide, Antonio, was outstanding, and talking to him, I found out that his 12 year old son attends a training school for bullfighters - three, 4 hour sessions per week. He had a video on his mobile which I got him to show our group.  Our "english speaking" group comprises just twelve people, so our excursions are quite personal.

Very big lunch, with wine,  in what was once part of a palace and then some free time before heading back to our boat. Our Spanish night featured tapas and paella (served initially from table pans and then by the Chef from giant pans).  The evening was topped off by a group of Spanish musicians and dancers - and a late night visit to the Sun Deck.

Another easy day

Have the boat to ourselves again this morning as most other passengers are off and catching up with places we have been.  We are on the move up river and will collect them along the way.

The Miguel Torga is 80m long, 11.4m wide and carries 132 passengers.  We only have a passenger complement of 95, so plenty of room and very relaxed.  As I write this para, we are the only two people on the Sun Deck. We will get to our first lock in about 1 hour - and now I am off for a scotch.

Over the journey we will pass through 5 locks (twice each).  We went through the first this morning and the second this afternoon - Carrapatelo's Lock, 36m high, the highest in Europe.  Quite spectacular, and all table's, chairs etc had to be lowered. We could sit on the sun lounges and had about 80cm clearance.  Shortly after we passed under a very low bridge with just under 50cm clearance.

Most passengers were on the Sun Deck, but sadly, many of those in bikinis would not have passed even the most basic "qualification to wear" criteria.

The river has ranged from about 50m to 500m wide with small villages every couple of km.  Railway line runs just above the river bank on one side.  Lots of boating, pools, kayaks, jet skis etc all along the river and lots of kids jumping in off platforms, rocks etc. Beautiful day with drinks being regularly served.  Very, very steep rises from the river to the top of the valley and so much of it under cultivation. Beginning to get into wine country and docked at Peso da Regua just after 7pm.

Another excellent dinner, following which we took a brief walk around town as darkness approached. A spot of dancing for the dancing queen before hitting the cot.  39C forecast for tomorrow as we take a tour of Vila Real and Casa de Mateus (seen on the label of every bottle of Mateus Rose).

An easy day for us

With only about 10 passengers on board, it was a particularly easy morning for us.  All the other 120 or so were off on Porto optionals that we have been fortunate to complete at our leisure before joining our cruise.  So it was a late breakfast, time on the foredeck with a coffee,  then a quick "swim" on the Sun Deck, before a wander along the river to an upstream river beach.

Back for lunch, and again it was magnificent, as was the wine (breakfast was average). Took the transfer Rabelo boat back to old town Porto in the afternoon (our quay is about 600m upstream). Just took a stroll along the river, watching the local kids jump in off the walls and steps and visited one more church - quite wonderful, but doesn't even make it into the guide books.

Then we visited a musuem on an old Roman site which, during its subsequent history, had been a 14th century Customs House as well as the property where Henry the Navigator was reputedly born.  Naturally, much is given over to Henry who was a driving force, and significant funder of the Portuguese journeys of discovery.  Had another seniors "win" with free entry (and sadly without having to produce evidence!!). One great piece of history was a near fully formed anchor dated to the Romans (around 6BC) and only found in the Duoro river in 1995.

It appears that there are only about 12 "english only" passengers, and we may be the only Australians. Less formal and regimemented than other river cruises we have been on.

Beautiful french cuisine again for dinner and with wonderful Portuguese wines.  Finished the night with a fado music show - quite haunting music.

Embarkation day - a little bit of everything

Last day at Porto de Rio, what a wonderful apartment. Early morning visit before the crowds to Igreja de Sao Francisco, just around the corner. Looks quite austere from the outside, but inside sits one of Portugal's most dazzling displays of baroque architecture.  Almost 100kg of gold leaf and goes back to the Chapel of St John the Baptist, the 13th century granite statue of St Francis of Assisi and catacombs - because,  prior to 1845, all Portuguese were buried in churches.

On then to the adjacent Palacio da Bolsa (68 years to build) which honors Porto's past and present money merchants. This is where heads of state are hosted and where port is declared "vintage".  Stunningly spectacular.

Free shopping time for Pat while I explore various viewpoints, the Se, the old city wall, the fish market and make some new Portuguese mates at a very small bar which supports the Porto FC.  Most enjoyable as we exchange toasts, work to understand one another and have a most enjoyable time together over a few beers. 

Meet up with Pat for a bite to eat and the Porto market before heading back to pick up bags and taxi to boat. The Miguel Torga is a Croisi boat (French family company and reputedly the biggest river cruise company in the world).  The Miguel Torga is in its first season and is ultra modern. Only 132 passengers and we are teamed up for dinner with two Canadian couples (sisters with their husbands from Montreal). Very good company, so all looks promising.  Probably only about 30% english speakers on board.  Roast leg of duck for  dinner - magnifique!!!

A hot but relaxing day

A 700m uphill stretch to Sao Bento railway station to again do battle with the Porto travel pass.  In fact, there are two stored value travel cards, the Andante (metro) and the Sida (urban) - and just to confuse things, their zones overlap. Yesterday we were able to tap on, on the outward journey, but not the return.  Today all good going out, but on return, one card worked, the other did not!!!  Every train has ticket inspectors, so the possibilty of conflict always exists - the solution is to take the receipt option on the ticket machine and keep it, eventually it brings a lot of head shaking to an end.  Notwithstanding my difficulties with the ticketing system, I did graduate to "adviser level" in assisting a Canadian couple this morning. 

Off on the train to Esphino, a beachside town on the Atlantic about 25km south of Porto.  Beautiful clear day but a brisk breeze off the water.  The beach is 17km long, much of it joined by a boardwalk, and around 80m of sand to the water.  Lots of people, including many school holiday program kids from as young as about three.  Water was quite cold but plenty in, and many surfers.  Beach is covered with canvas beach shelters of multiple colours (operated by different concessions). Time to relax and wander.

Back in town (31C versus 22C at Esphino) to a stunning laundromat just 100m from our apartment (need to be spic and span for our cruise boat tomorrow).  Easy laundromat to use and pleasant company - very different to my experience in the great laundromat war of 2015 (detailed in my blog of that trip).

Dinner back at WeePorto Wine & Tapas Bar which we enjoyed so much a couple of night's back.  Complimentary white port to finish off tonight.  The owner has invested very heavily in this business and the food is outstanding, but it is just on the wrong side of the tourist trap venues - a hidden gem for those who dig a little deeper.

Stunning day in Aveiro

Every now and then a woman comes into your life offering great value.  And so it is that our housekeeper at Porto de Rio is one of them.  We regard ourselves as pretty tidy travellers, but when she has finished, everything is precision - one stereotype of the Portuguese is fastidiousness.

Train down to Aveiro, about 70km, south on a stunning, high 20'sC day. Train full and everyone has got onto a train that emptied from standing room only - but not a scrap of paper or scratched glass in sight.

Aveiro is on the edge of an expanse of coastal lagoons and was a vibrant port until the river mouth silted up in the 1500's.  At the beginning of the 19th century it was given new life when canals were dug to open up the town, drain the marshes, and create saltpans.

It has a compact centre, handsome buildings and open squares with paths looping over it's canals.  A spectacular 5 dish tapas (octopus, chorizo, sardines, cheese & oysters with breads and sangria - €11.80 for two) for lunch.  Then a wander around town, including through the fish market (designed by a student of Gustav Eiffel) before purchasing a package canal cruise & tuk tuk ride around town (combined time almost 2 hours).  Both very enjoyable, and the young tuk tuk driver took us through town highlights, to the salt pans and to the town's original ovos moles shop (egg yolk and sugar custard in a very thin pastry shell). Tasted and bought.

Two other things I learned, are that the closer you are to the sea in Portugal, the more you will see externally ceramic tiled houses - because the ceramic offers good protection from salt damage. The second is that all the houses are tiled with different patterned tiles - because to have the same tiles as someone else would be like wearing the same dress to a wedding as other women!!

Comfortable train home and a light in house bite to eat, with Super Bock beer and ruby port. 

A little bit of everything

Breakfast in our kitchenette and then up the hills to Clerigos Tower and surrounds.  Missed a turn which delayed us getting to Livraria Lello, the Harry Potter bookshop.  Queue about 50m long but moved reasonably and we were soon inside.  Very impressive, but in some senses it mirrors the development of tourism in Portugal - it used to be free entry, then €2, now €4.

Up and down streets and hills, past cathedrals and a range of other magnificent buildings that don't even make the maps.  On to Rua Santa Caterina,  the Champs Elysees of Porto.  Big queue at the Majestic Cafe, so gave it a miss and chose a lesser establishment.

Down to Sao Bento station to see the azulejo tiling and have another crack at Porto's Andente Card (I now think they took the MYKI option as I found it impossible to reload our cards).  Some machines are coin or card only, those that take notes don't have change, and the card only covers some forms of transport - oh for Lisbon's much more user friendly, much more integrated system!

One street 250m long with 8 women's shoe shops was both a distraction and a delay but we headed up to Foz de Duoro at the mouth of the river on Tram Number 1 (one of Porto's three vintage tram routes - and its closest rail is less than 2m from our front door).  Beautiful sunny and warm day with plenty in the water. On then to a ferry across the river to the small seaside fishing village of Afurada. Almost every house is ceramic tiled on the outside, locals sitting in front of their houses, fishermen repairing their nets and the local ladies stone washing in the communal laundromat.

Wanted to eat over there but food not available until 7.30pm - same time as last ferry.  Back to Porto proper by ferry and bus (my Andante card worked, Pat's did not - and a traffic jam) to eat at the beatiful (food, service & decor) WeePorto tapas & wine bar -will be back (so much for fasting!!!).

A few days on our own in Porto

Farewells last night and this morning as our fellow travellers move on or return home. Most of the Canadians and South Africans have just been away for the 11 days and are heading home.  All of the Australians are away for between 4 and 11 weeks.

Perfect weather day as we rocated to Porto de Rio our very small (6 room) apartment hotel right on the Duoro River in the old town.  Hotel has been built into a 4 storey,19th century bond store and is quite spectacular and quite new.  Very customer focussed and helpful manager.  Pat has been suffering supermarket withdrawal, so the mention of a supermarket a 20 minute walk away along the riverside settled our first venture - breakfast supplies.

Then along the river, up the funicular and a walk across the top level of the Ponte de Luis 1 bridge (sharing the level with the non-seperated train line) to Jardin de Morro and Vila Nova de Gaia.  Spectacular views across the river to Porto and a very, very steep and staircased walk to the river below. 

Visited Porto Cruz cellars and then up to its very trendy rooftop lounge for a drink.  Time along the busy waterfront area before purchasing tickets for the gondola to the top.  Tickets included free port tasting and making our way to the particular cellars saw us in the middle of a very significant religous celebration procession - bands, drums, marchers, and around 20 very big flower and religous symbolled palanquins, each carried shoulder high by six people seemingly representing individual villages.

Eventually up on the gondola to the rail station.  Not so easy to buy a ticket at this ststion - its either coins or credit card for a €1.30 ticket.  No doubt the credit card fees will cost more than the ticket.

Dinner on the walk home - but a very light food day.

Last day with Insight

Trip to Braga this morning, about 50 minutes away. First to Europe's largest (and most magnificent sculputered granite staircase) at the pilgrim church of Bom Jesus do Monte. We avoided the stairs by using the 1882 (and still going strong) water driven funicular. Our Tour Director, Sarah (Canadian with a Portuguese husband) was married at this magnificent church. We got a good, but quick view of the externals just before a thick, drizzly mist came in.

The mist cleared as we came down to town - once again a most wonderful place. Braga is Portugal's most important religous centre with a bucket load of churches (93 of them). The Cathedral, founded in 1070, is on the site of a Moorish mosque and was built following the Christian Reconquest.

Back to Porto and one of us required some rest as the sun shone through and the temperature climbed. The other headed out to explore and get a feel of the old town, including to locate the riverside accommodation which we will move to tomorrow.  Lots of people and the waterfront and cobbled streets are busy, busy, busy.  Cafes and restaurants in abundance.  It is a national past time of the Portuguese to eat out. Per capita, it has more eating out venues than any other country, and this sector of the economy was the only one not to suffer decline in the GFC. It is claimed that the Portuguese spend an average 10% of income on eating out!!!

Very modern Metro system, which I found easy to use - new stations and new trains.  Feet up for a while before we head out to Matosinhos on the Atlantic coast for our farewell dinner.  And what a feast it was - tasting plate after tasting plate (somehow most of our table's prawn shells finished up in front of me!!!).  Then the mains, the dessert and the coffee - and all the while, the wine.

The next few days on our own will have to be fasting days!!

On to Porto

Failure to set an alarm made it a bit of a rush for "bags out" and breakfast.  We have Sydney twins who will only get their cases today (came via Athens & Rome - high risk!!).  We lost another couple for two days after they left passports in a hotel safe earlier in the trip (now back with us, with passports).

Sorry to have spent so little time in Pinhao and the Duoro valley, but we will be back next week on our cruise.  The valley is breathtaking, as was our accommodation at the Vintage House Hotel.

Off to Guimares, known as the cradle of Portugal because it was here that the country's first monarch, Dom Afonso Henriques was born in 1110, and the city became the first capital of the kingdom of "Portucale". Naturally it has UNESCO World Heritage status like pretty much everywhere we have been. Given its significance as the cradle of Portugal, it is compulsory for school children to visit this city at least once during their education - so even though it is school holidays, lots of school groups.

Some wonderful gardens, like everywhere over here, and everywhere is very clean. Some graffiti, but streets are very clean and the local atmosphere of small, owner operated and beatifully presented shops, results in a great community atmosphere.

Into Porto in the afternoon and down to the historic port wine cellars for a tour and tasting  at Ferreira. Huge cellars, and there are more than a dozen different producers riverside.  Headed off then for a river cruise on one of the old wine transport boats (barcos rabelos) taking in all of Porto's six bridges.

Then off to another huge dinner - five shared entrees, main (grilled octopus for me) and a buffet of sweets.

Another great day

Another big food and wine night last night.  Fortunately only every second night as we would never recover - and what it means for lunch the following day is just a coffee, a "Belem" tart and a glass of red - all for €4.

Lots of eucalypt plantations.  They cover 6% of Portugal's land area.  Also across granite countryside with lots of wind farms on the ridges.

Mid 20'sC day as we head first to Conimbriga, Portugal's best preserved Roman archaeological site.  What is visible is just a fraction of the Roman town below.  The town flourished from around the last year BC until around 500AD. One of the key sites is the very impressive House of the Fountains - although the fountains were not working (waiting for the plumber), and many amazingly preserved mosaics.

On then to the university town of Coimbra. Many students choose to wear their uniform (even on their summer break) and each school has a distinctive colour. The most impressive site is the baroque library with its marbled wood, gold leaf, frescoed ceilings and elaborate decorations.   No photos, and groups only permitted in for 10 minutes, then closed for 10 for atmospheric recovery.  This is the library featured in Walt Disney's last production - Beauty and the Beast.

Down to, across and along the Duoro River valley,  just spectacular and an amazingly challenging drive for Rubin, our coach driver. Vineyards on such slopes it is almost impossible to comprehend how they are tended.  Quite late into our spectacular Vintage House Hotel nestled on the vine laden banks of the Duoro.  Time for a quick swim before dinner at a riverside restaurant.

And so it continues

A little cooler as we set off, and even a little light drizzle as we head to the fortified town of Obidos - cobbled alleys and white washed properties.  Completely enclosed by medieval walls although much of the town was rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake.  500 years back the sea reached the foot of the ridge on which the town stands, leaving a fertile green plain when it receded.  Sampled the local Ginjinha d'Obidos, cherry liqueur, which is served in a small edible choclate "glass"

Travel has been through cork oak, cropping, olive tree plantations and another large irrigated rice growing area.  Beginning also to see the first of the Portuguese eucalypt forests (quite a few further north are experiencing big bush fires).

On then to Fatima,  Portugal's most renowned place of pilgrimage (and second only to Lourdes). The Chapel of Apparitions commemorates the appearance of the Virgin Mary to three young shepherds in 1917 (the first of six such apparitions).  The basilica's massive forecourt is capable of holding a million worshippers, and many visitors (as well as pilgrims) shuffle pentinently down the esplanade on their knees.

Mid twenties and light drizzle gone by afternoon for our visit to Tomar on the banks of the Rio Nabao.  Standing sentry above town is the mighty Convento do Christo founded in 1160 as the headquarters of the Knights Templar - scourge of the Moors and defenders of the faith. Absolutely incredible in scale and preservation. Finished the day with a visit to the 15th century Synogogue, now preserved, but which served as a prison, and private house following the expulsion of the Portuguese jews in 1496.

It has been a massive day with many,  many cobbled streets and stairs to tackle. Quite a few of the staircases were too much for me - and sadly, I trailed the field by day's end. Magnificent Temlarios Hotel, with great pool and dinner.

This trip is proving much, much better even than the high expectations I had!!

The days just get better

It is hard to comprehend, but each day is even better than the last.  Today we headed to Monsaraz, a most striking white village, close to the Spanish border, and on an imposing fortified hilltop surrounded by cork oaks and vineyards.  Spectacular views and the climbing to and within the very substantial castle ruins was reasonable, but I did baulk at a couple of spots. The stunning village, with its white houses and shops, overlooks a striking artificial resevoir, and across to the Spanish plains.

Construction of the Alqueva Dam was highly controversial as it involved the destruction of over 1 million cork oak trees and 200 prehistoric sites. It is 250 square km in size (69 of which are in Spain). The floodgates opened in 2002 and it is Europe's largest reservoir - with a perimeter double the length of the Portuguese coast line.  We sailed on it for an hour on a 104 year old Dutch sailing boat with wine and nibbles - even landing on one of its islands.

Then on to a two hour Portuguese lunch in an old olive oil mill.  Absolutely laden with food - 5 plates of tapas, then two main courses each (baked cod and roast suckling pig), then a taste plate of four sweets.  All the time plied with unlimited wine.  Needless to say there was much sleeping as we returned to Evora.  Another 33C day, so time at the pool before a late stroll down the street for a nibble.   We went genuine local, down a side street - no english spoken or understood, but we were able to secure a very nice fresh salad roll for Pat and a beer and a filled to the brim red wine for me for €4 -and got a photo into the bargain.

A great day, but an early start tomorrow.

On to the Alentejo

Relaxed start as we head into Portugal's hottest and driest area. Farming and agriculture similar to yesterday but many more vineyards as we head north.

First stop was Beja, off the tourist track and extremely quiet.  Founded by Julius Ceasar in 48BC and named Pax Julia. Castle from the 13th century is still preserved.  Town lost a lot of its population and deteriorated in earlier years but is being reborn so lots of restoration work.  Like everywhere in Portugal, lots of cafes and restaurants, but here they are all little 6-8 seaters, so we had to spread ourselves around for coffees - €4 for four cups and a slice of cake.

Back on the road and we see and hear plenty about cork trees. Trees are protected and cannot be harvested in first 25 years - then every 9 years (live for over 100 years). Across the country there are 500 cork factories, employing 250,000 people.  Portugal produces more than 50% of the world's cork, and cork represents 60% of Portugal's foreign trade €'s. The best quality cork is reserved for making wine corks.

Into Evora for lunch. Evora is very unspoilt and one of Portugal's most historical cities.  Around 55,000 population but most live outside its old wall. It's Roman temple survives along with its Moorish alleys, medieval wall and aquaduct (Aqueduto do Agua Prata) into which houses have been incorporated in places.  The walls and all within them have UNESCO World Heritage listing.

Light lunch of sangria and shredded octopus pancakes before walking tour.  Covered all key sites including the Roman Temple, squares, Cathedral and the Franciscan Igreja - including is "chapel of bones".  The shops have a very strong bent towards cork products, everything from postcards, to hats, to baskets is available in cork.  You can even buy a cork bikini.  Then to our hotel, the Mar de Ar Aqueduto (modern 5 star built into an old convent), and adjacent to the aquaduct.

35C by mid afternoon so time for the pool before heading out to dinner.  Evora, the same restaurant as for lunch - most enjoyable.

Into the Algarve

Another 30C day and off to the Algarve.  On the road for a rest break and a coffee to be ordered in Portuguese - success!!  Then on to Lagos for free time and lunch. Country is undulating with beef cattle, cropping, cork trees, some vineyards and citrus - and even a large irrigated rice growing area. Interesting to learn that the crane is a protected bird in Portugal (saw lots of them and their nests). You are in serious trouble if you take a pre-winter holiday and return home to a nesting crane on your chimney - you just have a cold winter.

Portugal's motorways are great, with not much traffic because the tolls are quite high.

Lagos is one of the south coast's most historic towns and enclosed in 14th century walls. Full of holiday makers and young people and with crowded beaches and high occupancy levels on on-water activities.

Elected another lunch of sangria and ice cream, but fell for the old trick of not going back two or three streets.  In the event, it was very good and full of fruit (all devoured), but badly overpriced. To make it worse, I then walked past a €12 hairdresser (where David Beckham does not get his cut).

Tracked east along the coast to our resort style accommodation, Ria Park Hotel, near Almancil. It is back a few hundred metres from the beach in line with recent law.  Excellent property and straight on to the shuttle to the beach. Time for half an hour in the Atlantic. Water very pleasant (and  quite salty), and long wide sandy beaches with many enjoying the sun, sand & water.  Back on the shuttle to prepare for dinner. Most of the properties in the area have a distinct Moorish flavour, most often white, and occasionally light yellow or pink.

Wonderful restaurant in Almancil, Vaults, for a stunning three course dinner with wine. The building was erected in the 1670's as a coaching house and stable on the route from Spain to Lisbon.  Across it's history it has been used as a butcher shop, pool hall, mosque, wine storage facility, the first cinema in Almancil - and for the past 40 years, as a restaurant in various guises. Made the mistake of wearing a white shirt which my Eton Mess desert did not go with.  Now have a white and red shirt.  There must be a marketing opportunity for cheap disposable shirts for aging men!!

A busy, busy day

Another beautiful 30C+ day, clear sky, no wind and no humidity.  On the bus for a quick overview of the city centre before heading to Belem - to the pioneering years of the age and voyages of discovery.

First to the Torre de Belem, the 1515 fortress jutting out into the Rio Tego at Lisbon's entrance. Then to the Padrao dos Descobrimentos, a 52m high, caravel like monument inaugarated in 1960 on the 500th anniversary of Henry the Navigator's death - with Henry at the prow and 32 other Portuguese giants, including Vasco da Gama.

On then to Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, a fairy tale of a Monastery founded in 1501 to trumpet Vasco da Gama's discovery of a sea route to India. Once populated by monks of the Order of St Jerome whose spiritual job for 4 centuries was to comfort sailors and pray for the King's soul.  Now one of Lisbon's top tourist sites (and the surrounding buses and crowds proved that).  We had an expedited entry through the west portal to view part of its magnificence, including the interred Vasco da Gama.

Then an "original" Belem tart from the "famous", "original" bakehouse after which we took leave from the group as they headed for a three town optional which we will do over two days later in our trip. So, it was off to see the massive queue at the "original" bakehouse (how jealous would Krispy Creme be!!).  Then to the Tropical Botanic Gardens, a coffee and the tram back to Cais do Sodre to the big Time Out market and eatery, then the ferry across the Rio Tejo to the small riverside suburb of Cacilhas for a wander and then a late lunch/early seafood dinner of grilled sardines, grilled cod and 1/2 litre of red wine for €17.50.

Back on the ferry and the Metro to the Altis Grand,  a swim and time at our roof top bar for sangria, beer and bar snacks.

The legs are starting to struggle - not so much the cobblestones,  but the uneveness of the surfaces, often one foot 4 or 5 cm, higher or lower than the other - and then the reverse on the next step forward.  But loving this holiday so far.

Not too hard a day

33C forecast with full sun.  Altis Grand is a very big hotel - 600 rooms and a reasonably recent modernistic revamp. Typical extensive buffet breakfast for an hotel of this type.

Down Avenue de Liberarade to Rossio & Baixa areas (pretty well all rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake and fires that destroyed much of Lisbon).  Shops not open until 10am or later, but lots of opportunity to window shop. Badly needed a haircut but could not see a hairdresser anywhere, let alone an asian $15 job.  Referred by a shopkeeper to Figaro's. Most expensive haircut I have ever had at €25 - but then, David Beckham gets his cut here when in Lisbon, and there was free beer. Offset the price with 2 coffees for €2.40. Many very big and spectacular churches (so many that they do not all make the maps) - but they are an excellent rest stop.

Down to Praca do Comercio, Lisbon's huge waterfront square.  Visited the Lisbon Story Centre on the Square - not to be missed. Tells the story of Lisbon from the time of the Phoencians (who lost control to the Romans in 210BC), to the post 1755 rebuild of the city. Excellent displays and the best personal audio system ever experienced.

Walked the waterfront to Cais de Sodre, then machine purchased the Lisbon "myki card" and navigated the Metro back to our Hotel (both systems easy to use).

A swim and a scrub up before our Insight check in and Welcome Dinner.  28 on board and we are about the average age (not too many too much older - and Australian,  New Zealand & Canadian identified so far). Sara, our tour Director looks to be pretty switched on and with a bright personality.  Dinner at Alfandega restaurant (coincedentally, just around the corner from our Lisbon accommodation later in the trip) comprising Portuguese tapas, inluding the traditional chicken and cod fish dishes - very nice (as was the wine).

And so to Lisbon - 12 & 13 July

Comfortable pick up for time in the Emirates lounge before our 6pm flight to Dubai via Singapore.  Could have had a later flight with same connection, Dubai to Lisbon, but elected to break it up. Quite a new Airbus  A380 and suprised at the size of the Business Class cabin - around 80 modules. Clearly the Business Class option is proving more and more popular, despite its ridiculous price. Anyway, most enjoyable and even spent a little time at the on-board lounge.
A little late out of Singapore due to having to off load a passenger on medical grounds, locate and remove bags etc, etc, but time made up.
Boeing 377 from Dubai to Lisbon (older and not quite measuring up to the A380) but still a pleasant (and full) passenger load.
Quickly through the processes at Lisbon airport and into the Altis Grand Hotel a little after 1pm. 30C, so it was soon into the shorts and off for a walk - Mae d'Agua (18km long, 65m at its highest point and built between 1728 and 1835 to bring Lisbon it's first clean drinking water). Up to Parque Eduardo VII, Marques de Pombal and along the tree lined Avenue da Liberarade (beer at an avenue cafe under the trees). Back to Hotel for a swim (the Portugues adopt the same approach as the Italians ie you must wear a bathing cap to swim in a pool - fotunately there were black ones and I avoided my Italian experience of having to wear a pink one) and then some rest.
Not suprisingly, only one of us made it out for a light dinner and a visit to the rooftop bar.
PS - did not walk the whole 18km, just 180m!!!!!